The end of our journey - a special day in Finisterre.

Dandy and Julia had stayed at a wonderful boutique hotel in Finisterre when they were here in 2015 and highly recommended we try it.   Hotel Da Natureza Maria Ardora would be our home for our last night in Finisterre.  Chris had already spent the prior night there so he picked us up after breakfast and we checked in about 11:00.  The hotel only has 6 rooms, all with a view of the Ocean and the owner and staff go over board to provide superb service.   We enjoyed the pool and jaquzzi and Chris and I had a massage.  Later we checked out the beautiful beach a short distance away.  Felt like we had landed on a Caribbean Island.  We invited Laura and Linda - Pilgrim friends from Bethesda, MD, to join us and had an extended happy hour.   At 8:00 that evening the owner used fresh ingredients from her garden to make some lovely tapas and serve some local Spanish wine.  After tapas we headed to the beach for sunset and a few of us had to dive into the Atlantic.  Cool but refreshing.   A PERFECT last day of pampering, friendship, laughter and sharing God's amazing beauty.  

 

    

We arrive at Finisterre

Edel, Aidriane and I departed Muxia early Monday morning (6:00am) destined for Finisterre.   A waterside cafe offered a Pilgrims breakfast and a group of us were there when it opened to enjoy coffe, juice and toast.   As we delarted down the coast we were greeted by morning fog and the sound of waves - sunrise was still 30 minutes away but it sure felt good to be back walking.   The trail was beautiful and we only met a few folks in the am hours.   I had a chance to walk ahead as the Irish chatted with a young Australian lady (not from Melbourne - or born on May 30th) who would soon be heading to med school.   The temps remained perfect with a nice coastal breeze and the road weaved inland and then back to the ocean.  

 

 We had an option to stay on the main road or head to the coastal route and of course we chose the alternative.   We knew places for food and drink were sparse on this route but we stumbled onto what might have been my favorite lunch spot on the whole Camino.   The Oceanside bar was empty and we enjoyed a well deserved pitcher of sangria and some ham sandwiches (of course).

 

 Along the journey the Irish demonstrated their animal rescue skills - first with a young pup who was stuck and then with a goat....clearly they have honed these skills as they are part time "ranchers" back in Ireland.   We have seen so many animals along the journey...they always add a smile to your face regardless of type.   

 

 We completed the 20 mile hike by about 3:00 and were greeted by friends in Finisterre.  Another coastal fishing village - larger then Muxia and many more Pilgrims and tourists.   We caught up with Chris - who had driven from Santiago - for lunch and later for an amazing sunset at the lighthouse.    The Lighthouse is the end of the Camino and the adjacent "Zero Marker" acknowledges it.   Long ago Europeans thought this to be the true ,end of the world" hence the name comes from "Finis Terra".  A look at the sunset horizon gives you a little feel why.   The walk today was near perfect and any itch I have to walk further has been fully scratched.  It was a long wonderful full day.  Looking forward to a day of R&R before a travel day back to Madrid.  

 

  

Muxia to Finisterre

Early Sunday morning I met up with Aidrian and Edel ("The Irish") and we grabbed a bus to the coast.  The two hour ride was peaceful and dropped us off in Muxia.  We enjoyed the lovely Oceanside village and found a room at Casa Isolina where Bogonia was our host for our stay.  Bogonia had the Camino Spirit and loved to share everything about her home town.   She shared all the history of the village and encouraged us to check out the main sites, attendthe evenings Pilgrims Mass and to stay up for the Sunset that occurred about 10pm.   No easy task for Pilgrims use to going to sleep at that hour.   

We climbed up to "O Corpino" - a large cross that overlooked the town from the hills above.  A challenging climb through brush but offered amazing panoramic views.   Later after a very nice dinner at a small cafe in town we walked to the Church and attended the Pilgrims Mass. The Church had 8 models of boats hanging throughout its rafters as they constantly pray for the safety of their fishing fleets and the others who pass through their waters. 

 

   Muxia was a great great.  The weather was perfect - it felt like we had the city to ourselves - which was a nice change from the business of Santiago - and we saw some really beautiful sites.   After the heat we had in Santiago - we actually had jackets on tonight for the sunset. We really appreciated the cool breeze.   I enjoyed the company of my Irish friends who have become regular walking companions over the last 15 days and Bogonia was a real treat.   Has us very ready to start our walk along the coast to Finisterre early tomorrow.  A quick picture of a map below.   

Celebrating in Santiago

Our first focus after getting settled in Santiago was to make sure we were in line early for the 7:30 evening Mass.  The lines earlier in the day were long - with tourists flocking to join in the Pilgrims Mass.   Four years ago the noon Mass was packed but virtually all of the participants were Pilgrims.   The Cathedral has since prohibited people from bringing backpacks into the Church so know it is hard to tell Pilgrims from other participants.   We were in line by 6:30 and got right into the Cathedral - allowing us time for reflection prior to Mass.   The Spanish Mass was presided over by a dozen priests - I would guess several were visitors also walking the Camino.   Would be pretty cool to have Fr Culloty walk with us someday and co-celebrate Mass at Journeys end.   It is a time to give thanks for God's guiding hand in our travels and reflect on St James - the Patron Saint of the Spanish people and the Camino.  At the end of Mass they often swing the "Botafumeiro" - a giant incense burner that requires 6 attendants to swing it the width of the Cathedral.   It was originally done to help balance the stench of the Pilgrims who had walked for months to arrive at the Cathedral.  Today's Pilgrims still are in need - but to me it is a form of adoration that I associate with special events in the Catholic Church.   

 After Mass it was time to celebrate with friends New and old.  We found a great tapas place and emailed a group of folks - everyone made it there and we enjoyed a special evening together.  We saw many folks we knew as we walked around town and Santiago felt like a small town in many ways.   We enjoyed the time but also knew our time together was growing short and many of these friends would become treasured memories in our future.  

 The very next day we rose early to get our "Compestells's" - an official certificate in Latin that acknowledges your completion of the Camino for either spiritual, health or other reasons.  Most folks choose spiritual - only each of us knows for sure the driver to our walk.   Chris was in line very early and as one of the first ten Compestellas of the day he also received a free lunch at the Parador....well done.   

We enjoyed some shopping and site seeing around the city for another day and got to spend some time with Chris's cousin as her group arrived on Saturday.   I enjoyed the special moments in Santiago but was looking forward to continuing on to the coast.  Chris would hand another day with his cousins and drive out to meet us in Finisterre.   Our return flight was scheduled for Thursday and that gave me thrre more days (plus a travel day to Madrid) to enjoy the Pilgrimage.   Our good friends from Ireland were on roughly the same schedule and also anxious to continue their walk.   Spain was in the midst of an unusual heat waive so we adjusted our plans and instead of walking to Finisterre and busing back we decided to bus to Muxia and walk along the coast (about 20 miles) to Finisterre.   A plan we were initially disappointed about but we got excited the more we talked about it.   We would be off early Sunday morning and plan to return to Madrid late on Wednesday.   

Santiago!

We wake early (5:30) on Friday June 16th to start our walk into Santiago.   It is only 20 Km's or 12 miles - but we would like to arrive well in advance of the Pilgrims Mass held each day at noon.   Adriane (Jordie) and Edel from Ireland stayed in the same Pension with us last night and we all head out together for this last leg.   It is the first time Chris and I have walked in the dark and I use my headlamp while he uses his phone to help,light our path.   Early on we follow what we think is a yellow arrow (it was really white) only to realize 1/2 mile down the road it was the wrong way.  Not the way to start your early journey.  The correct path takes us through groves of eucalyptus trees and eventually opens up a,lowing early site lines of the city.   We stop at Monte de Gorzo (Mount of Joy) where a monument exists to the visit of Pope John Paul....and also honors Francis of Assisi.   

 

 

We get a good view of the awaiting city and the Cathedral that is the focus of today's walk.  By 11:00 we have entered the "Old City" - always much more interesting then new parts of these towns - and arrive at the awaiting Cathedral.   

 

I have been thinking more about the true Pilgrims of old and how they much have felt after journeying from their homes throughout Europe.   Taking on risk to themselves physically and significant financial hardship to bear the months of walking - their joy and anticipation - much like their faith - must have been extraordinary.   When they arrived they were only 1/2 way as they still had to back track to their homes.   All to seek the blessing of St James.  

 

We celebrate with friends as they role in - but it in some ways is anticlimactic.  It was never about the destination and always about the Journey.  We try to go to noon Mass but the Friday service is jammed with Pilgrims and Tourists and we eventually decide to go to the evening service.   Beers at the Parador - are followed by our normal ritual of laundry and showers - but today we will all gather for an evening meal and enjoy the company that will soon be separated by many miles.   

 

 

The home stretch to Santiago

Once we hit Sarria we knew the number of Pilgrims would increase significantly.  Many folks come to walk the last five days.  Some as part of organized tour groups and others as part of church groups or school groups.  Still others come to get a taste of the Camino that fits within their work schedules.  Some amongst us who have walked a long distance find this surge an unwanted distraction that irritates them.   I can understand their feelings of loosing the balance of the Camino - but the Camino belongs to everyone - much like life we must find a way to adapt to the changing situations we face.    For me - I chose to find pockets between the increased numbers that still provided me some solitude for part of the day.  It might require walking faster - or slower - to protect the pockets - but they were always there.   It also brought a new group of folks to welcome and make at home on the journey we all shared.   We must show them the same warmth that so many others showed us along the way.  Everyone has their own Camino - regardless of length - and to treat them differently would be to loose the lesson we are being taught. 

One of those new groups who were here as part of a tour were cousins of Mr Jones.  Pam (mom), Sean (son), Matt (son) and Nancy (Pam's friend) all flew from CA to walk the last five days.  Sean had an injury - so he biked the path - while the others enjoyed the beauty and challenge that the walk represents.   They got a little rain - some really hot days - a few nice hills - lots of new friends - a Pilgrims Mass - and a wide variety of shared experiences in a short five days.  Pretty powerful stuff.  

Emotions are starting to mix for our Pilgrim community.  Almost all do not want the walk to end.   Many will walk on to Finisterre and Muxia - while others will have to return to the realities of work.   But it seems for virtually all that the experience is exceeding their expectations by a large amount.   They may not be able to explain it in words but they feel it with each passing day.  These new bonds are powerful and the Magic of the Camino has touched them in ways they could not have expected.   I share their feelings despite having very high expectations when I started.  Santiago is in reach...I look forward to the celebration but am starting to share the feeling that my walking is not yet done.   

Below is a picture of one of our favorite groups that were walking the last five days. A girls school group that sang in Churches along the way....we enjoyed their singing and got them to sing a few nights out in the squares after Mass.  A real highlight.   

 

This lady was walking the last five days - she was 87 years young.  Carefully watched by her daughter and grand daughter she brought a huge smile to my face and had me thinking I have many more Camino's in my future.  

 

Leaving Sarria early in the morning....beautiful view looking back down on the town.   Always a cross to welcome you into town and to greet you on the way out.....

 

Chris finding a nice "pocket" to walk between the growing number of Pilgrims.  

 

Our Camino family

The people you meet along the Way tend to be the most powerful part of the Journey.  It is from them we learn and from them that we leave with questions we never started with...and answers we hope to reflect on.   We were so blessed to have Camigo's that crossed our path and enriched us at a variety of stages.   Some left early as they were section walkers, others fell behind due to pace - or moved ahead for the same reason.   But a large group became family over these weeks and that bond intensified as we approached Santiago.   We might walk together for hours with one or more people - or see others at lunch, over drinks or maybe dinner.   But at each stage we got to share more, laugh more and grow closer in a way unique to the Camino.  It is a hard thing to describe in words.   The sharing of "nothingness" that grows beyond your imagination.  A blank tapestry that grows richer and more complete with each passing day.    I had felt this previously but the intensity of the relationships over a 30+ day period was quite different then the 14 days we walked in 2013.   It will be hard to leave the new friends that we have come to treasure.  But like the spirit of the Camino they remain friends for life.       

We descend to Triacastela

What goes up usually must also go down.... so after enjoying the mountain top views and the aerobic workout it provided we now start a long slow descent.   We start with a very overcast morning - which limits a great viewing opportunity - but provides a welcome level of coolness as a trade-off.   The afternoon brings back the sun and some wonderful views of the city that waits us.  There once were three Castries here ....all gone today.... but it once was a very important stop for Pilgrims.  As the site of a major quarry - Pilgrims would carry whatever lime stone they could to the lime kilns closer to Santiago as a way to support the building of the Cathedral.   The Pilgrims are honored with statues here and along they way to recognize their role over the years.   

 

   We are only 5 days out from Santiago.  You now have a sense that the end is near and it brings as much sadness as joy.    

The beauty that is O'Cebreiro

Leaving LaPortela de Valcarce we entered one of the steepest climbs of our journey.  The prior day's climb was felt more then I hoped it would be....but the beauty more then delivered.   The memories were quite vivid, from my prior climb four years ago, but on this picture perfect day each turn felt new and vibrant.   Knowing that refreshments awaited at the top of the mountain we ascended swiftly and reached the top by noon!   

 

   Last time we reached the top it was time to celebrate - but this time we enjoyed a picnic from the Supermercado - caught up with some Australian friends over a few beers - and pressed on to the next town on the back of the mountain.   As beautiful as it was on top - it was too crowded - a popular spot for tourist buses and others to gather to take in the beauty.   We were happy to share it with them for a good chunk of the afternoon...but ready to walk back into our Pilgrim world and the solitude we share with our community of walkers.   

Churches along the Camino

The Catholic Church provided a great deal of the support to early Pilgrims....from lodging to food to spiritual nourishment.....the Churches were key to each journey.   So it should be no surprise that the Camino route passes each and every major Church - in cities, towns and villages.    I love the fact that every town has a beautiful place of worship.  I remain in awe of the grandeur of the Cathedrals and the power the Church yielded throughout Spain.   But as beautiful as the large Cathedrals were....they are now managed more as museums then places of active community and worship.   I found myself feeling like the Churches were part of yesterday not today....

 

  I 

I was inspired more by the smaller Churches were we held many of our Pilgrim Masses and received a powerful blessing for our journey, or shared Gregorian chanting or said the Rosary with the congregation.   I was excited to enter the many small Churches we stopped in to say a prayer and light a candle.  I found myself more in awe off their simple beauty then the grandeur that the Cathedrals offered.   They resonated with the Pilgrim in me that was carrying all his belongings for the journey on my back.  They offered the quiet solitude that refreshed.   They felt alive and supporting their communities with love.  They were our spiritual centers and provided a warm embrace.    Luckily for us they were at every turn and guided us in their own way....