Cruz de Ferro

On a cold overcast morning we ascended to the highest point of the Camino (about 5,000 ft)  The climb was gradual but lengthy and the misty morning felt right as a backdrop to "Cruz de Ferro" (Iron Cross).   It is about 2/3 of the way to Santiago and a Spiritual marker for many.  Pilgrims traditionally leave a rock or a remembrance of something here.  Others might be leaving a rock to try to move on from past issues.  Wether it be a remembrance or a transition the landmark is an emotional moment for most Pilgrims.  I am sure deeper self reflection might have had me drop a few rocks from my personal baggage but it was hard to think beyond leaving something from my Dad.   We departed from the States exactly 18 months from his passing (12/15/15) and were scheduled to walk into Santiago right around Fathers Day (6/18).   I loved and respected my Dad with all my heart and this day would be focused on him.  I left a lamanated copy of the prayer card from his funeral attached to the cross.   Though it is easy to miss his earthly presence - I have never stopped feeling like he is with me.   Was wondering how hard this moment would hit me - but I felt more joy then sadness thinking about Dad.  Thanks fir the memories.   Happy Fathers Day Dad.      

(Backup) The March to Molinaseca

We left Astorga having done a long 18 miles the day before. I knew today's hike was one of the tougher days as we descend most of the day.  

 

The views were amazing but at each turn there were more tricky downhill rocky areas. 

 

 

The knees bare the brunt of the hours of downhill but the reward was a lovely walk into town and a chance to rest our feet in the cool stream.   

I had been counting on more water - as we had swam in this same area in the past but the town controls the flow.  I guess it was not considered warm enough.  Dandy and Julua swan here in 2015.  

Nice to have a really tough day behind us and ready to be climbing back up the mountain.  

(Backup) Camino Magic

So many Camino stories.   This one  is worth sharing.   We met two ladies from Australia who lived near Melbourne.   Later we met another lady from Australia - who was of course from Melbourne.  The three of them went to a dinner one night in a small restaurant and there was only one other guy there so they invited him to join.   He of course was also from Melbourne.    One of them mentioned they had celebrated their birthday on the Camino - and two tuts shared they had as well.   All of them being born on May30th.   

So a small place in nowhere Spain had 4 customers.  All were from Melbourne, Australia and three of them shared the same birthday- WOW.   Only one the Camino. 

 

(Backup) Best Day Ever

We met Charles on our way out of León and he decided to stay with us in Villa de Mazarife.   Charles was quick to open up about life and shared that he had recently lost his job at age 50 with a company he had worked for for the last 25 years.  He was confident he would find another job and had received a good severance.   He was more concerned that he had lost contact with his wife who was suppose to meet him in Sarria and walk the last 5 days with him.  He had left some walking partners he really liked and was saddened to have to skip the Meseta (Burgos to León) to arrive in time.   Chris and the both had chances to walk and talk with Charles and in a few days he had heard from his wife and worked out a new game plan.  Charles became the happiest man on the Camino.  He rose early each day...explored everything, connected with more people and stood in amazement to God's beauty that surrounded him.  He raised the bar for all of us to be even more grateful for this amazing experience.  For the last few days he walked with us he would end each day   y saying "best day ever"...only to repeat it the next day.   I nicknamed him "Sir Charles" and we were blessed to have him cross our Camino path.  

Some love from the British

One of my favorite Albergue's four years ago was Gaucelmo in Rabinal Del Camino.   It is run by The London based Confraternity of St James and always staffed 100% by volunteers.   The volunteers all have to have walked the Camino previously.   It is a "donation" so you pay what you can for your room and food.  They don't have a communal dinner but they do have a communal "tea" at 4:00 each day in their expansive gardens and a breakfast in the am.  The welcome you get from the three volunteers is warm and sincere.  The albergue is far from the most beautiful but the Camino Spirit fills every inch of their facility - from cold water st reception - to help with wash - and always anxious to make your visit special.   This years three volunteers were Sandra, Sarah and Steffano....(Australia, the U.K. and Italy) and they made our time there unique and we left hoping to share as they had shared with us.       

León Reunion

Paul and I enjoyed 3 days of walking the Meseta - doing some long days but still finding time to connect with our new Pilgrim friends.   We stayed in some small towns such as Terradillos de Los Templarios, Calzadilla De Los Hermanillos and Puente Villarente.  One of our favorite hiking partners were Adriene and Ardelle - a couple from Ireland.   After a difficult health year in 2016 they decided to take a year off and travel - starting with the Camino but then extending to Asia.   They had great Stories - to go along with a great sense of humor (pics below).   Some of our best visits had us running bye the Super Mercado (grocery store) and bringing beer, wine, cheese and pastries back to the Albergue to share.  Lots of good stories and conversation always followed.    

We remained anxious to catch up with Chris-toe and finally did that in León.  He was holding court outside the Cathedral meeting Pilgrims when they entered the city and had rested his ailing toe.  He also cutt  a hole in his hiking shoe to eliminate future issues with the toe.  Genius.   It was great to be back with him and we enjoyed a happy hour with Pilgrim friends, a special Pilgrims Mass, some great tapas and a fun evening exploring León.  Excited about the days ahead but sad to be having Paul soon be leaving us to head back to San Diego.  Paul walked with us 12 days and always had a bounce to his step and excitement for the day ahead.  We will miss him but will see him upon our return to celebrate his Big 60th birthday in Virginia.   

León was also the place I finished my Camino - having started in 2013 with a very special León to Santiago walk with Julia and Taylor.  We hit the Parador in León for a drink to make the loop official.  Now I will walk this leg again - remembering so many special memories while making new ones each day.  I will hold my family even closer to my heart as we walk to Santiago - God willing.   

 

  

   

(Backup) Pilgrims Masses

In many of the towns we stop at for the evening there are Pilgrims Mass's - usually around 7:00 pm.   The Mass is always in Spanish followed by a Pilgrims Blessing.  The Church is always beautiful regardless of size and the chance for some quiet reflection is a great end to our day.  In the town of Carrion de Los Condes the priest at Santa Maria was able to deliver the blessing in both Spanish and English and then individually bless each Pilgrim - laying hands on him or her and blessing "Our Way".  A volunteer then passed out homemade stars for our Pilgrim passports and the hospetieler (who runs the adjacent Albergue) hugged each Pilgrim and wished them a Buen Camino.  In León - at the Basillica - the blessing included prayer cards in our native language and song sheets for all of us to sing Spanish hyms that bless the Pilgrims.   In Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos - there was not a Mass - but the local ladies pray the rosary each day in the month of May to honor Mary the Blessed Mother.   Being amongst them as they prayed was one of the spiritual highlights so far in my Camino.      

The Road Less Traveled

Paul and I had 3 days to León and had to decide wether we stayed in the normal Camino path that hugged the highway or took an alternate that stayed on farmland but was desolate for long stretches.   We chose the tranquility of the alternate and were surprised how few made that choice.   We walked for hours without seeing another Pilgrim.   

(Backup) Breast Cancer Walk in Spain

For a number of years my brother, daughter and I have done the 2 day - 39 mile Breast Cancer Walk in honor of my mother who died in 1964 and a number of other victims and survivors.   This year my participation was trumped by our Camino walk though Julia and Sammy are headed to Chicago in early June (you go girls).   We have walked in Washington DC, Boston and NYC.   Little did I realize my walk this year would be in Spain.   We met two special sisters along our walk that meet in Spain each year to walk a section of the Camino.   Barbara is from Philly and Illia still lives in Germany.   Illia was diagnosed in 2011 and recently has been re-diagnosed.  Barbara was diagnosed in 2016 while on the Camino and has gone through a year of surgeries.   These ladies  - both Mothers of 2 - crossed our paths a number of days and lightened our Way.   Their steps were light in Spain but I know they still have challenges ahead.  We never walked 26 miles in a day but we walked many thinking about this disease and those who have been impacted by it.   So glad the list of survivors grows and hope they are on that list for many years to come.   

One of their hobbies was to scetch Churches once they arrived in town.  They are both Architects so they produced some great stuff.   They left prior to Burgos - wishing them well in the sections ahead.  

   

(Backup) A great alternative

Chris developed a serious blister on his toe that required medical attention.   After the blister was cared for he got the word that he should not walk on it for 2 full days.   After reflecting over a few adult beverages he decided to bike the 60 miles into León - grab a few rest days - and prepare for the last 200 miles from Leon to Santiago.   It was great to see his excitement as he headed off on his new mini adventure.  We will miss him as Paul and I walk the next few days through the Meseta but he has a unique twist and no doubt a few great stories to share.