We approach the 1/2 way mark!

We arrived at Carrion de Los Condes - it is the 16th stage of the 34 stages we will walk.   Four days ago we left the large city of Burgos and hit the "Meseta" which is a relative wilderness across flat peaceful tracks of endless crop fields.  Wheat is planted on the better ground and barely and oats on the higher poorer soil.   Shade is at a premium and causes some to dislike this section but so far we have enjoyed it.  The vistas are expansive and the flatness allows for easier days and reflection.   It is always hard to believe the people that cross your path - some for a short conversation - others for multiple interactions over a walk, coffee, beer or dinner.   I took a quick stab at the folks we have met by Country and then by US states....

Ireland, New Zealand, Japan, Spain, Korea, Canada, Brazil, Germany, Mexico, Holland, Denmark, Norway, France, Belgium, Italy, Poland, South Africa, Australia, UK, Russia, Ukraine, Ecuador, Switzerland.....will be harder to find new Countries....but many new friends.    From the US we had the following States ....Washington, CA, New York, Oregon, VA, CO, Missouri, GA, South Carolina, Alabama, PA....I am sure we will add some new US States....

Where else can you meet so many folks from around the world and engage them in conversation that can get deep in an instant and cover religion, politics, geography ....before diving deeper into why they are walking and what issues are most on their hearts.   We have met many folks who have sold everything before coming here....others who are hiking for 5 years or starting a year long trip around most of the world.  Many who are section hikers and come for 7-10 days a year.   Others recovering from health issues or starting anew after a major change in their life.   Quite a blessing to be part of this diverse smorgasbord of life.   More stories about people to come as they are what makes the Camino.  

Blessings my friends.....

Pepe and the Russia Interpreter

We walked from Granon to Espinosa Del Camino - another 15 mile day.   After a rough night sleeping on mats in a large community we were looking for a smaller place to spend the night.  Greeted by another blue sky canopy we arrived at La Campana and were greeted by our host - Pepe.   Pepe was a paratrooper in the Spanish army many years ago and proudly dorned his hat for this picture.  He also has walked the Camino 5 times and loved sharing his perspectives. Unfortunately he only spoke Spanish - but was so passionate that one could figure out a fair amount of what he was saying.   It did make you wish you were fluent in Spanish to carry on a great conversation with this veteran.

 

Pepe's small Albergue hosted 4 other visitors upon our arrival - who spoke only French.  So between French, Spanish and English we were going to have an interesting communal dinner.   Then Tatiana arrived.  A Russian lady who spoke all the languages fluently and maybe more.   She translated in French, Spanish and English while taking notes in Russian - WOW.   

(Backup) The true Camino Spirit

We hiked into Granon on Monday - our 6th day on the trail and we are starting to get our walking legs.   We have been blessed with good weather since our 1 rain day and have been walking around 15 miles per day.   We have been staying in private Albergue's where we shared a three person private room with shared bath but today we stayed in San Juan Battista (St John the Baptist) Church.   Together with about 40 other Pilgrims we;

Signed in as guests and grabbed our sleeping mats for the night

Helped prepare the evenings meal of tuna salad, bread, soup and fruit.  

Attended the 7:00 Pilgrims Mass

Ate dinner together with the 3 volunteer leaders from Spain, Germany & Italy

Had our own time of reflection in the Church choir - where under candle light we each shared some thoughts in our native language about what the Camino has meant to us.

Lights out and attempt to get this old body to sleep on this thin mats.  

A few pictures below.  This Church welcomes all Pilgrims - and accepts donations to pay the costs.  Give what you can.  The volunteers that lead have all walked the Camino and come to volunteer for 2 weeks at a time.   It was a special evening - taking us out of the focus of how far we have walked and any aches and pains - and getting us a little more focused on the Spiritual component and the amazing community we get to be part of for these weeks.  

     

If the shoe fits....

We awake to a bright sunny day that seems like a great gift after the rain.   We had everything  spread across the room drying - even taking the insoles out of our trail runners.   A quick breakfast and we were on the road.   A short 12 miles to Viana was welcomed after yesterday.  Chris felt like his shoes had gotten much firmer after the rain and I felt like mine were actually softer.  But we gratefully continued on - stopping for cafe con letchie and enjoying our surroundings. He added some mole skin and was sure the shoes would soften up soon.   When we got to Viana we negotiated a room in a lovely apartment and prepared the normal post walk steps - wash clothes, shower, beer....You can imagine our surprise when I discovered that Chris was wearing my 11 1/2 insoles in his 10 1/2 shoes and vice versa.  Yes we do have the same trail runners (black Solomon's) but my Super Feet inserts are much firmer then his standard inserts - including different colors (green vs white).     We survived the walk with only minor foot issues - luckily - but demonstrated a very low IQ (reality).  We debated how this could have happened with neither party admitting fault.   

So just because the shoe fits - you should not necessarily wear it.   Think through issues, analyze results - make changes mid stream - get it right vs get it done.  

Singing in the rain (not)

We awoke to a gray sky - but no rain. 

 

 So after breakfast we started our day.  It was cool but a perfect temp to walk.  By 7:15 we were on the road - cautious but grateful.  Rain gear already deployed as the forecast was a long day of rain.  We got past Estrella and had a chance to drink from the " Fuente Del Vino" - a free wine fountain provided by Bodegas Irache.  Not my normal drink of choice at 8:30am - but tasty.   Chris went for the large cup.  

Soon after the rain started to fall and it would continue for the balance of our 16 mile walk.   I enjoy a little rain but the temps dropped to 40 degrees and the winds howled.  Our roads become mud pits and the beautiful fields we crossed offered no protection from the elements.   It was cold.  We pressed on with more focus on our destination then our surroundings and arrived in Los Arcos at 12:45.  A small shop offered cafe con letchie - but frozen hands could barely grasp the small cup of welcomed warmth.  We checked into Casa Abella (grandma's house) and started the drying process.  We had dry clothes to change into - but the most important item - our shoes -had a long way to go in order to be dry for morning.  

The storms passed by 4:00 allowing us to dine in the small town and then go to a Pilgrims Mass.  After Mass the priest called up all the Pilgrims for a blessing and passed out prayer cards in their native language - very nice touch.  

 

 

Chris and I dined tonight with a lady (Petra) from Holland who touched us with her story.   Her older sister (65) was in quite poor health but wanted to walk the Camino as her dream.  Petra agreed to walk with her last March.   A walk that usually takes 30-40 days took them 90 days   Each day they walked as far as her sister was able and then her sister would sleep the rest of the day.   Petra helped deliver  her sisters dream.  A very personal Camino - and great shared joy when they reached Santiago.   This year Petra is back to walk her Camino.  Everyone has a story.  

We got challenged today with the weather but the Camino -like life - has it's rainy days.  Those days help you appreciate  the sunny days even more.  The forecast is for good weather ahead.  We will see them with rose colored glasses.  

The Camino 2017 Starts

We arrived Madrid early Tues (5/16) to start our Camino.  Chris Jones and I had been here last May and 5 days into our walk he had what I feared was a stroke and spent 3 days in the Hospital in Pamplona.  Luckily it was just a reaction to some med's and after getting fully vetted by his Dr's he is back with me this year to pick up where we left off.  Our journey will start in Puente La Reina (1 days walk from Pamplona) and end in Santiago.  We hope to cover around 425 miles over the course of 30 days.  

From Madrid we took the train to Pamplona (3 hours) and walked the 1.5 miles to the city center.  Lots of memories here from our last trip and I got to know the city pretty well.   In early July it will be crazy with the running of the bulls...but it always has energy.   We ran into some Pilgrims and caught up on their walks over a few beers - an artist from Australia celebrating her 50th birthday with her daughter and a young brewery worker from Richmond, VA hiking with his Dad - an Anglican priest.  The people always are the treasures of this walk.  Later we check out the Cathedral for the Pilgrims Mass and enjoy our first Pilgrims dinner (appetizer, entry, desert & wine for $10 euros).  Sleep is difficult tonight with the combo of jet lag and excitement and it will be a few days before that changes.  

The following morning we bused to Puente La Reina and the walk started.   We walked about 4 hours  - a short day 1.  Along the way we meet Marina, a jewelry designer from San Diego - she has taken a fall in her first few days and is pretty banged up - but still focused on getting to Santiago in the weeks ahead.  We also met a Mom and daughter from Cincinnati.  The daughter is doing a GAP year and has just finished the Appalachian Trail (AT) and is now doing the Camino.  

Our evening is spent at Albergue Casa Magica in Villatuerta. We grab a shower, do some laundry and settle in on the back patio with a few San Miguel's.   Over the next few hours another dozen guests join us and we have new friends from Germany, the U.K., Spain, Italy, France, Holland and of course the USA.   A fun way to spend our first happy hour.  Later we share a communal meal of paella with about 30 - the extra large pan of paella is a work of art.  I enjoy dining like this and the wine and conversation flows.  A French couple at my table is on their third Camino - each time starting from major cities in France.  Their current walk will be 2,000 KM's or about 1250 miles.  Not bad considering she is 73 and he is 77.  Wow.   

Our room has 5 beds - so fairly private for an Albergue - and no bunk beds.  I sleep better tonight but when awake the orchestra of international snoring is impressive.  

A good first day of walking - and Casa Magica lived up to its name.  A longer day ahead tomorrow- and the forecast is rain all day.  We discuss resting and not walking but decide we are here to walk and will test the conditions.    More to come...

Getting Excited

It's just 11 days until I leave for the Camino with Chris Jones (and Paul Sager for a portion).  It will be my third visit to this special pilgrimage and as much as I treasure the journey  - I have not thought about it much.   That will change in the next week.  My body is not fully ready but I am mentally more prepared then in any prior walk.  Ready for quiet reflection- ready for amazing interactions with fellow pilgrims - ready to embrace Camino magic - ready to stretch physical, emotional and spiritual muscles - accepting of the pain that awaits and knowing the joys will trounce the pains.  

If your reading this please let me know how I can pray for you during this Journey.

Blessings,

Bob